Food-wise, South America is where it's at right now. In the last few months, we've seen the arrival of Lima, Ceviche, Coya, De Nada, The Bull, a new Moo Grill, Garufin and now Zoilo. And that, I'd say, constitutes A Trend.
But it's daft to chunter on about "Latin American cuisine". It's like an American telling us he's popping out for a European, lumping haggis and huevos estrellados with hasenpfeffer in one homogenous sweep. Zoilo is specifically Argentinian (chef Diego Jacquet hails from Buenos Aires) and, despite a culinary history that takes in influences from Italy and Spain to Meso-Indian, think Argentinian and you immediately think "steak".
And you wouldn't be entirely wrong. It's a nation that happily necks pampas grass-fed steak and eggs for breakfast. In Zoilo's owners' other outlet, Casa Malevo, the emphasis is on the fragrant, charred output of the parrilla. But Zoilo is less monomaniacal and, I'd guess, more personal. The menu is far more interesting than the BA model of "empanadas, steak, Milanese, flan".
Some classics remain. Empanadas stuffed with smoky grilled peppers, chicken and cumin are fine little things: crumbly pastry caving into a savoury, spiced squidge. A juicy, rough-hewn chorizo tastes homemade, subtler than the familiar paprika-red jobs, and comes with squares of polenta and tomato – that Italian influence.
Argentinian ojo de bife with chimmichurry (sic) is rib-eye of such majesty – savoury depths contained in meat of carbon-to-rosy tenderness, but with enough bite to remind you what your incisors are for – that you completely understand the national obsession. The sauce hums with thyme and good oil, making the meat, if anything, beefier. Chips, oh chips of joy: golden, crisp, shimmering with oil, garlic and parsley.
There's excellent homemade bread, and blissful sweet things – crème brûlée thick with dulce de leche and topped with banana split ice cream. I love alfajores: outrageously short cornflour shortbreads sandwiching more dulche de leche. Even vegetarians, who'd get short shrift on the pampas, get the famous grilled provoleta cheese, oddly meaty and dressed with honey and almonds. Or sweet beetroot with goat's curd, garrapiñada (candied nuts) and cubes of fried béchamel.
It's a "small plates" place, so, as ever, unless you have the appetite of a Olsen twin, you end up with a bill the size of an Olsen twin's boyfriend. Otherwise, it's lovely: beautiful Marylebone townhouse, dramatic entrance via a heavy curtain leading on to a cosy space – bare brick and dark wood, twinkling bar, handsome barmen. The wine list is an adventure, all Argentinian, with much by the carafe. So 10 out of 10, calloo callay, can't wait to go back.
Until I do. And the food is still excellent, especially a crab and humita (corn cake) soup that thrills me to the marrow with its massive punch of crustacean flavour, and some pillowy gnocchi – yes, they're Argentinian, aka ñoquis – slick and nutty with sage butter and grilled pumpkin. There are pneumatic, garlicky prawns on pork belly that's been sous-vided for several hours until it's like meaty caramel.
But the experience is altogether different. We're on stools downstairs in front of the heat-belching grill, slowly turning our phizogs every bit as scarlet as the raw bife. The mainly Italian chefs jolly and chafe each other in their native tongue. Great fun, but alas our waiter is so grumpy and charmless, we're made to feel as welcome as a fart in a onesie. We ask for advice on the wine list and he pokes a finger at the house wine by the glass. Food is dumped between us, interrupting conversations. When he starts spritzing round us with detergent, we take the hint and slope off into the night.
What a difference good service makes. But I like Zoilo enormously, and I'm not about to let the troll in the basement spoil that for me. When I go back – and I will – I'm cowering safely upstairs.
• Zoilo, 9 Duke Street, London W1, 020-7486 9699. Open all week, noon-10.30pm (10pm Sun). Meal with drinks and service, around £40 a head.
Food 8/10
Atmosphere 8/10
Value for money 7/10
Follow Marina on Twitter.
No comments:
Post a Comment