We are bringing you all the London Fashion Week action, as it happens. Today: Todd Lynn looks to the gangs of New York as Rihanna lands in town for her big River Island reveal.
16 February 2013
Live streaming today:
Saturday, February 16
09.00 DAKS/ 12.00 Jasper Conran/ 14.00 John Rocha/ 16.00 Todd Lynn/ 18.00 Issa London/ 20.00 David Koma
Meanwhile in Jakarta...
…Addy van den Krommenacker has been presenting his latest collection as part of the Indonesia Fashion Week. The Dutchman looks a bit like a Ken doll crossed with Anthea Turner, but hair aside, we'll stick with London, thanks. OB
Photo: EPA
A whole lotta leg
The Saturdays, with 10 immaculately epilated, exfoliated, hydrated and bronzed legs between them, upped the glamour ante at Julien Macdonald. Check out which other celebs have been soaking up LFW
Photo: Reuters
Todd Lynn's Gopher girls
Photos: Vladimir Potop
A trip to pre-WWI New York for Todd Lynn's new collection. Taking inspiration from The Gopher Gang, who used to rob people of their clothes then take them to a seamstress to have them altered, the theme was all about feminising masculine proportions, taking aspects from many and patchworking them into one, then layering them over one another.
Men's blazers gathered at the back with a simple stitch to create a teeny waist, oversized coat sleeves slashed at the inner elbows and arms poking through, wrap skirts over cropped trousers, every piece looked as if it has genuinely been created from something which already existed, not from scratch.
A wiry hand-woven lace was thrown in too, in the form of a entirely sheer floor length dress with nothing worn underneath proving Lynn's girl, though fierce, had sexy in her too. Louboutin ankle boots with cut out sides and wrapped cable detailing added to the DIY feel, as if carved from a once-elegant boot.
These were real mean girls (not the LiLo type) with scruffy hair, septum rings and knuckle dusters (courtesy of Shaun Leane), and you certainly wouldn't want to bump into them at night. Can't help but think The Gopher Gang would have a field day were they to ascend on Somerset House this weekend... Bibby Sowray
From the playing fields to the catwalk…
On Valentine's Day, 17-year-old Rosie Tapner was enjoying a muck around her sixth form's muddy playing fields… Fast-forward three days and the Hertfordshire beauty, who is signed to Storm Models, opened the Todd Lynn show. Expect to see a lot more of this prettily pouted lass.
The only way is Julien Macdonald
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Merthyr Tydfil's maestro of more-is-more glamour returned to the LFW schedule today after a two season sabbatical. Macdonald's choice of venue was wonderful, but showing in the gilded Palladian perfection that is Goldsmith's Hall takes some chutzpah. As front rower Kelly Hoppen could have testified, interior design can overwhelm. Macdonald, however, almost effortlessly eclipsed the room with a signature collection of super-tight, super-bright glitz. After all of LFW's St Martins by-numbers 'structural' what-not, we were suddenly transported deep into transparent bra-strap territory - not a place for the fainthearted. Yet Mary Charteris, The Saturdays and a regiment of artificially bronzed, enthusiastically whooping Macdonald acolytes lapped it up with gusto. He might not be at fashion's cutting edge, but Macdonald is highly accomplished at serving his party girl market. Luke Leitch
Click here to view the full collection
John Rocha's pretty palette
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Marques Almeida anti-glam glamour
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida know who their girl is. She's cool. She doesn't care. She likes her denim as raw as it comes (and hers comes deep indigo dyed direct from the best looms in Japan). She doesn't bother to hem her jeans, preferring to rip them a few inches up the inside seams so the long hems drag along the floor over her chunky white rubber soled ankle strap shoes (so much more street than couture). But this season, Marques Almeida set her a challenge to walk up the red carpet. Out of her denim comfort zone, she keeps her edge in frayed silk dupion - oversized trousers worn with a ponyskin biker jacket: "the big trouser worn with the squashed boob top," said Marta Marques backstage.
"We got so obsessed with the bag," added Almeida. Their version of the luxury evening clutch was a tiny zebra print wallet which simply amplified the volume of the trousers.
"Everything is so raw. It doesn't translate as sexy," said Marques. "It's defiant." Go, Marques Almeida! Tamsin Blanchard
RiRi is gonna rock with River
Leaving sunny Los Angeles for dreary London, we can't wait for Rihanna to show off her first ever collection for River Island later this evening. You can catch the action as it happens on Facebook. Photo: Rex
Orla Kiely's single ladies
Kiely's prim secretaries busied themselves tying up their memos in a cute presentation of retro Mad Men Sixties style - harking back to a simpler time when girls were girls and worked in typing pools until they were lucky enough to get married and have babies. And these girls looked the part in their neat dresses with Peter Pan collars, mustard coloured edge to edge coats, wool fitted dresses, pencil skirts and buttoned up cardigans - and all with matching bags in Kiely's ubiquitous prints, subtly punched into leather or embossed in velvet for a special date. Tamsin Blanchard
Photo: AP
Frow-verheard
Here are some of the randomest things we've heard said at the shows...
and if you thought that was nonsense....
The One To Watch: Alexis Barrell
Who? Johannesburg-born, London-residing, globe-trotting designer. Blondie-alike Barrell, 27, majored in architecture, but jumped ship to study at the prestigious Istituto Marango fashion school in Paris. She launched her label in 2010.
What? Silk trousers, fluid blouses and soft-structured jackets in livewire prints and hues. Apparently the colours she picks reflect her moods - safe to say she was feeling perky for autumn/winter 2013 with her cool fluoro orange and turquoise jumpers which lit up her presentation at St Martin's Lane Hotel. She throws her travels on the moodboard, too. The gritty concrete jungle of Berlin inspired this season's collection of stark grey, black and cream panelled coats and skirts. The signature silk trousers - in a gorgeous lilac trimmed with white grosgrain waistband - we're there, but there's a more structured approach. "There's more of an androgynous feel for this season - I looked to Marlene Dietrich."
Why? Because Barrell's pieces are classic yet-quirky-without-being-silly special; there's something a little off-beat about each piece which takes them from should-owns to must-haves. Plus, they're absolutely beautiful - and ultra-flattering. "The one theme that runs through my collection is easiness. I love seeing my clothes being worn by women in their own way - throwing a big jumper over one of my silk shirts. I like that." Her dream customer is the ever-classy Charlotte Rampling.
Where? She's been picked up on an exclusive with my-wardrobe.com for spring/summer 2013. Expect her stockists to multiply when that deal ends.
Random fact #1: She had her own kitchen business - "a very amateur catering company" - which she's thinking of resuscitating soon. And the food? "It's very wholesome, natural, never fussy. I cook a lot of Italian and bake ciabatta." Sounds as good as her clothes.
Random fact #2: She once gave mouth-to-mouth to her friend's kitty - "We Googled how to do it. We eventually took him the vet." Did the cat live? "He did. I'm sure he was really traumatised though. Phong Luu
Henry Holland's eBay addiction
With auction site eBay as one of House of Holland's main show sponsors, designer Henry is 'giving something back' by launching a capsule collection created especially for the retailer, with all proceeds going to Cancer Research UK. A psychedelic-inspired dress (£100), T-shirt (£50), tights (£20 and not for the fainthearted) and an iPhone case bearing the same motif as the HOH show invite. Holland, 29, is a firm eBay fanatic, scouring the site for vintage Steven Sprouse to add to his collection. The best thing he has ever bought was "a Moschino printed shirt for £150" about a year ago. Stay tuned for updates about his latest collection later today. Shop the collection here. Olivia Bergin
Make-up moodboards at Julien Macdonald
Expecting beautiful things from make-up artist Val Garland at Julien Macdonald. Here's her teaser moodboard. Katy Young
Photo: @JulienMacdonal d
Karlie's Koming
The sweetest of supermodels, Karlie Kloss, is on her way to London town. We predict a riot...
A fling with the Sixties at Jasper Conran
Photos: Vladimir Potop
A Jasper Conran's effervescently orange catwalk played host to a Sixties-inspired collection today. There was no doubting his inspiration - the Twiggy and Mia Farrow types of the swinging era - as shape-free shift dresses, patent mini stacked heels with opaque tights and fun bell hats (created by Stephen Jones no less) made their way down the runway. Daywear gave way to glitzier evening numbers shimmering with paillettes and sequins, and although his point of inspiration was possibly the most recycled era ever, there was still an air of freshness. A yellow chiffon-layered shift, although a little 'Big Bird', was undeniably fun, which is after all what Conran excels at. Bibby Sowray, online fashion writer
Uncomplicated drama at Yifang Wan
Sharp-edged necklaces, bracelets and belts inspired by religious symbols from Buddhism and the Christian Desert Fathers created an extreme contrast to Wan's signature elongated silhouette. Cashmere overcoats, dresses and trousers were layered perfectly and created looks that would be both wearable and highly desirable for next season's winter months. April Kosky
Raspberry vs. blackberry lips at Jasper Conran
Make-up schizophrenia continued at Jasper Conran who could only narrow their make-up rainbow down to two lip colours on the catwalk. Models made a lipstick statement in a choice of dark, juicy, blackberry or bright, popping, raspberry. Worn with bare, glossy skin, the shades worked just as well against the autumnal hued clothes as they did the pop-art brights. Katy Young
Photo: AFP
Clements Ribeiro tries trellis garden fashion
Read the full show report here
Photos: AFP
Fake crop at Clements Ribeiro
International super star stylist Sam McKnight gives us a backstage teaser of his 'fake crop' hair for Clements Ribeiro. Katy Young
Photo: @ s ammcknight1
Christopher Raeburn sets sail
Photos: Getty
Christopher Raeburn was apparently inspired by a set of WWII naval defences - the Maunsell Sea Forts - off the English coast for his autumn/winter collection, which perhaps explains why the very cute show invitation was a message in a tiny bottle.
So, there was blue in the colour palette, albeit cerulean rather than Her Majesty's navy hue, but there was also crimson, grey, a few monochrome looks and a gorgeous tarnished gold on textured jackets and trousers. Silhouettes were boxy on bomber jackets and a couple of shift dresses; and fairly neat elsewhere.
Raeburn had the genius stroke of using Teflon to make the clothes - which of course included his trademark parka alongside plenty of other outerwear options - rain-resistant. Sporty, quirky and a little bit gorgeous, Raeburn's ship is sailing strong. Nick Barron, stylebarron.com
Rockabilly bee-hives at Antipodium
The less than perfect beehive at Antipodium managed to take a sixties inspired style and catapult it into next season by tweaking texture, adding a new sky rise height and finishing with a super sexy messy, but still chic, finish. Katy Young
Photo: Vladimir Potop
Antipodium does Sixties surveillance
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Entitled Sex, Lies and CCTV Antipodium's offerings for next season are a cool, sexy mix of slick patent dresses, faux pony skin coats and metallic leather jackets which took inspiration from spy cams, CCTV and the seductive thrill of surveillance.
High shine patent macs, neat pleated skirts and furry collars had subtle sexiness which was furthered by crisp shirting printed with images depicting Sharon Stone's iconic leg crossing scene in Basic Instinct.
Stand out pieces included an oversized shearling coat with contrasting lilac metallic panels and leather skater dresses in lipstick pink and pistachio.
We saw our favourite Antipodium staples: the shirt dress, bright mohair knits, slouchy trousers and of course the bomber jacket which came in mustard puppy tooth check.
Antipodium continues their second footwear collaboration with ASOS with velvet heeled boots and white tie front courts.
Along with fans of the brand (Alexa, Poppy and Edie) we will be at the front of the queue when it hits the shops. Frankie Graddon
Sci-fi nails at Antipodium
"Staying true to the matchy-matchy trend, the silver nails work as the perfect accessory for the collection!" said nail artist Katie Hughes who created the look using Butter London polish in Bobby Dazzler painted over a natural nail shape (just follow the shape of your cuticles). Katy Young
Sibling update their nan's curtains
Photo: Getty
With show notes name checking Paula Yates as their inspiration, Katie Grand on styling and Cara Delevingne opening the show we knew we were in for a treat this rather dreary Saturday morning. Sister by Sibling are known for their pack-a-punch knits and this season was no different. Models stomped the runway in enormous pom-pom berets and floor trailing scarves worn over itsy-bitsy knitted knickers and embroidered cardigans. Kitch crochets, chintzy embroidered florals and prints worthy of your nan's curtains were brought into 2013 with shorter-than-short "pussy pelmets" as one FROWer referred to them. Most importantly it made us smile, a lot. Which is no mean feat for 9am on a Saturday morning. Sophie Warburton
Cara Delevingne hits LFW
Photo: @kegrand
2012's Model of the Year Cara Delevingne racked up the shows at New York's A/W '13 Fashion Week and now she's back on home soil to show London's catwalks what she's made of. First stop: Sister by Sibling.
Daks girls do Sunday School chic
Photos: Vladimir Potop
This season's muse at DAKS was Charlotte Rampling so, mentally erasing those exhibition photographs of her being passionately snogged by a naked Juergen Teller on top of a grand piano, we expected androgyny and wide-legged trousers in abundance.
We weren't disappointed: the first few looks displayed Sheila McKain-Waid's keen tailoring skills in the form of louche pant suits and trench coats in luxurious grey wool, and boxy cropped jackets paired with high-waisted trousers. Most successful were the flashes of metallic- an emerald green knit paired with a black librarian length pleated skirt was the kind of outfit a girl might plump for if she wanted to channel an up-town Sunday School vibe.
Special mention must go to the shoes, specifically those wonderfully sensible mid-calf black leather heeled boots with gold welt trims - understatedly sexy and seemingly easy to walk in. Score. Ellie Pithers
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Friday, February 15
Fashion's power pow-wow at Number 10
Photo: Darren Gerrish
See which of fashion's power players swished into Downing Street to mark the start of London's 56-show, 5-day fashion showcase last night .
Central Saint Martin's class of autumn/winter 2013
Top row: Eilish Macintosh. Bottom row: Sadie Williams. Photos: Vladimir Potop
First things first: boys, back away from our wardrobes. We're equal opportunists here (heck, we've borrowed enough jumpers and jeans from your drawers ), but we have to say that you'll never look quite as good as us in those sack dresses, swimsuits and fishnet tights the students at Central Saint Martins' MA show put you in last night. Then again, experimental is the name of the game for these fresh grads.
There was plenty of that in the womenswear, too: Sadie Williams's mega-cool futuristic silver, blood-orange and gold dresses were cut, jarringly, with Puritanical high necks, long sleeves and long hems; Jaimee McKenna piled on pleat after Yves Klein-blue pleat (the effect was sometimes unfortunately a little toilet roll holder-ish); and there were all sorts of weird shapes emerging out of and stuck on dresses (including one with a huge broader-than-your-shoulders rectangle - try walking through a door with that ).
It was Eilish Macintosh's black sheaths overlaid with knotted rope harnesses (one alarmingly looked like the hangman's noose) that won best in show, though. Christopher Kane, a CSM old boy, took to the stage to announce her as the winner of the Creative Talent award - and rightly so; you can already imagine Alexa Chung in one of her elegant and quirky-without-being-silly dresses. Phong Luu
Sass & Bide does sporty sci-fi
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Taking the PPQ - AGAIN
Why anyone still bothers going to PPQ is a mystery. Season after season, the same farce plays out: stupidly long queues, stupidly long waiting times, stupidly ill-organised seating arrangements: "Do you have a blue ticket, or a yellow ticket, or a pink ticket? A VIP ticket? Do you have a ticket with a seat number or not?" the bouncer barked. One exasperated showgoer asked the bouncer when they'd be sending people in: "We're loading them in soon," he replied, as if he was talking about herding cattle. Charming. When Suzy Menkes moaned about Marc Jacobs's show running two hours late (and quite rightly, too), the designer took on-board the criticism: his next season's show started on the dot. Smiles all round, glowing reviews, everybody happy as Larry - hint hint hint, PPQ. To say that we were annoyed, though, implies that we care about the clothes. Which is why we walked away after an hour's wait - in apathy. Phong Luu
Skittle fingers backstage at PPQ
Super long talons went matchy matchy at PPQ in bright candied orange, yellow, green and mauve shades at PPQ to go with the rainbow block coloured collection. Is it us, or is there a lot of colour indecision when it comes to backstage make-up for autumn winter 2013? Katy Young.
Photo: Vladimir Potop
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Friday, February 15:
Vintage Blue Peter at LFW
Singer and DJ Sophie Ellis-Bextor took her legend of mum to the PPQ show. For all you young whippersnappers out there, we're talking about Janet Ellis, who was a bona fide (what else?) Blue Peter presenter in the late Seventies and Eighties. Photo: Getty
Posie face at Eudon Choi
Photos: Vladimir Potop
It's hard not to lose your sense of fashion humour when you're forced to wade through hoards of street style wannabes en route to a show, and I very nearly did. Fortunately, Eudon Choi swiftly sorted me out with a perky collection of folk-inspired fun. Pompoms and flowers adorned the models heads as they navigated the catwalk to a live traditional Russian folk band.
As they twanged away, full midi skirts with embellished fine knits, shocking red chiffon numbers every bit as elegant as they eye catching and perfectly proportioned knitwear all screamed "wear me".
A cobalt blue oversized overcoat and lapel-less crombie blocked in navy and bottle green were also particularly notable, in a Celine-esque way, which is definitely no bad thing.
Choi's also a genius with leather, something demonstrated with a pea coat, palazzo pants and full-skirt midi dress all formed of it but an entirely wearable way.
Every pair of sky-high shoes was accessories with a playful pompom, but even that didn't take away from the sophistication that Choi channels so perfectly through all his pieces. I'll have it all, thank you. Bibby Sowray, online fashion writer
Krystof on cue
How refreshing, a show running on time, starting at 4.30 on the dot. Krystof Stroznya's colour palette was inspired by The Siren, a painting by John William Waterhouse. And the underwater colours are apparent through out with sea greens, navy and burgundy to spice up the cool colours. The zips and oversized collars add an edgy vibe to the feminine one pieces and structured dresses. The show notes explain how the ladylike collection and feminine silhouettes are to celebrate the female form an encourage womanliness in the wearer....celebration of women anyone? Megan Boyes, Daily Telegraph intern
Orient meets Avatar at Jean Pierre Braganza
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Models swept along geisha-like on exaggerated platforms, giving necessary height to Braganza's dramatic, layered skirts. Prints and bold lapels featured heavily in this self-proclaimed Sci-Fi collection with burned peach tones popping out from amongst saturated teal, black and grey. Bragaznza says the collection constitutes a 'tribe.' And with those fur scarves on offer, it's one I'm queuing up to join. Alicia Luba, online intern
The fakes hit Fashion Week
We thought it was a bit suspicious seeing Anna Wintour and Karl Lagerfeld scoffing down the LFW freebies. And then we saw the high street sunglasses, the synthetic glow of Karl's wig and Anna's overly-straightened bob. We wish 'Anna' had been holding Elle or Harper's for major-league comic value.
Ladylike contrasts at Lug Von Siga
With the Psycho soundtrack as its backing music, the Lug Von Siga show was set to be an interesting one, however it soon became clear that rather than alluding to the style of clothing, the music was actually in place to create a dramatic contrast to the ladylike collection that was presented. Starting with a basic palette of nude, white and grey, the clothes gradually began to present more dramatic colours as the collection developed, ending up with a range that included bright fuchsia pink and striking black. For her A/W collection, designer Gul Agis had drawn inspiration from the impact mirrors had at the time of the Ottoman Empire and she displayed her intrigue clearly, through the use of broken pieces of glass on some of her more daring pieces. The use of glass was combined with the use of textured fabrics, creating a modern and unusual take on feminine tailoring which can often be over-simplified. April Kosky, Telegraph contributor
Say cheese!
Natalie Massenet (centre), the British Fashion Council's new chairwoman, rocks a rather dazzling Burberry trench in the 'official portraits' shot for the autumn/winter 2013 showcase. She's joined by class swots (aka brilliant designers, from left to right) Christopher Kane, Christopher Bailey, Anya Hindmarch MBE, Jonathan Saunders and Sir Paul Smith, with the brunette BFC chief executive Caroline Rush. Photo: Henry Bourne
On the grapeVine
As we're down with the kids, we've started using Vine, Twitter's six-second video app. We'll be tweeting all of our Vine vids throughout the shows so keep an eye out, and be sure to follow us if you're on it too.
KTZ does kooky headwear
KTZ promised to "honour the rights of clairvoyance" in this collection and the label did not disappoint, putting on an edgy show full of leather goods and bizarre accessories. The crowds were mad and the show packed, leaving many fans out in the cold. Wide brimmed baseball caps, urban goodies and horned masks were just a few of the extravagant accessories models wore to strut the catwalk with the booming soundtrack from Diplo. Megan Boyes, Daily Telegraph intern
Photos: Getty, AFP
Muted metallic nails and hot lips at Felder Felder
Brushed metal nails were spotted on the super cool girls at Felder Felder; so gold manicures are back, but in a paired down, stripped back (and shorter) version of their former glamorous self. Meanwhile bare-faced save for a hot tomato lip, the make-up artists showed us how to wear a modern pop of colour on the lips with this sizzling tomato number - which came without shimmer, gloss or sheen to stay the right side of cool. Effortless and beautifully executed. Also note the way went it all matchy matchy when worn with hot red leather trousers. Katy Young
Photo: AFP
Uh oh, stiletto!
We know it's mean, but we do enjoy the occasional runway malfunction. This poor lass at Felder Felder actually removed both her shoes... Check out more catwalk mishaps here
Felder Felder grows-up
Photos: Vladimir Potop
Oh my, what a turnaround. Leggy identical twins Dani and Annette Felder upped the ante this time. Looking to the Seventies and a fusion of skateboarder Tony Alva's attitude and the work of photographer Sarah Moon, the German duo delivered a chic, slick, well put together and - most importantly - covetable collection.
Beautiful burgundy pony skin gilets were thrown over printed chiffon dresses and floppy felt hats were teamed with crombie style overcoats. Gone were the skater style skirts in favour of knicker-skimming red-carpet-worthy gowns in forest green devore velvet and butter soft silk trouser suits.
Backstage the charming sisters mused that their client was "still the same girl, just grown up" but luckily she hasn't lost that "couldn't give a **** " attitude. A close working collaboration with 'latex couturiers' Vin + Omi resulted in tighter-than-tight fleshy coloured trousers, modern additions to the traditional trench coat and a splattering of high shine under jackets. Gone is the Baileys swigging girl of last season, in favour of groomed, Manolo wearing elegance. And do you know what? I want to be one of those girls. Sophie Warburton
Who's that girl?
Find out why this lovely lady has been dubbed "the new Alexa Chung" here , then click through all her most-stylish looks here .
Photo: Rex
Cramped at Corrie Nielsen
Hailed as one to watch a few seasons ago, Corrie Nielsen's presentation as intimate this time round - and by intimate I mean a maximum of 30 people. The space she showed in was small - so small that the best seat in the house was in fact not in the house but to be found peering in the windows from outside, which is where the clever clogs from the Telegraph stood. The collection (seen through rather reflective glass windows) was, erm, sculptural and black, I think. To be honest I couldn't really see it regardless of the select few inside. There was a large round of applause at the end, so I'm guessing it was good, despite of what I could, or couldn't see. Sophie Warburton
It's not called the eye-Pad for a reason...
This sort of behaviour is a major pet peeve of ours, as there's nothing more annoying than watching a show through someone's iPad screen. Front-rowers, you have been warned.
It's a no-show for Poppy Delevingne
LFW will be without its colt-limbed whiff of blonde totty on the front row this season, as ambassador Poppy Delevingne stays put in LA to pursue her acting dream. If you're missing her already, check out her collection of holiday snaps...
13.00 Fyodor Golan's monochrome waltz
Photo: Reuters
As the string orchestra fired up in The Savoy salon, expectations wavered towards that of a waltz, not a fashion showcase. Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman's models did not dance, but strut, in towering Bionda Castana heels, and structured silhouettes. Fabric was fashioned into stiff shapes on sleeves, chests and hips to give an almost architectural reworking of the classic cocktail shape. Flashes of red and tropical blue florals peppered a collection of monochrome, while stand-out pieces included a white patent cropped mac and tiny chain embellished biker. Signature 'hippy' smiley faces tried to mar a similar leather jacket; and an electric blue face plate (half mask, half dinner plate) added further playful detail for the fashion journos to start scribbling about. Alice Newbold, Telegraph online fashion assistant
Shut up! Amy Childs does fashion week!
Sporting rather au naturel make-up, the perma-tanned beautician of The Only Way is Essex fame found herself at the off-schedule Apu Jan show… (no, us neither). Photo: Getty
Helena's smalls Triumph
"That's so over, I don't want to talk about that anymore," Helena Christensen rolls her eyes. She's referring to that Boden campaign she starred in last year, which upset Middle England for being too sultry.
What she will talk about is her new lingerie collection for Triumph, her second for the brand. We were holed up in the (very tiny) "Maison Triumph", its fancy private show space in Covent Garden, for her presentation this morning - Triumph is the official lingerie sponsors of London Fashion Week and are providing all kinds of flesh-coloured bras and thongs for 30 shows including J. W. Anderson, Giles Deacon and Matthew Williamson. No flashy Victoria's Secret-style glitter and gloss catwalk here though; Helena's Angels were reclining on chaise longues (the ones who drew the short straw and were sitting out front in the colder room did a mighty job of hiding their chattering teeth), kitted out in her elegant vintage-inspired designs - the lilac lace set trimmed with turquoise was dead pretty. "I adore Vintage lingerie - the intricate details, the way there was so much love put into making pieces, when it was sewn by hand. I've got a lot of vintage pieces, but I don't wear them as they're built for a different shape. They had really pointy boobs back then!" she laughs. "But they're all so beautiful."
As it turns out, Christensen's first lingerie job was for Triumph: "I shot for them in Copenhagen, before I moved to Paris and worked internationally - funny how it's come circle all these years later. I've still got the Polaroids - I kept a lot from my shoots. I'd love to do a book maybe with them."
The million-dollar question we wanted to ask: how many hours of her modelling life does she reckon she's spent in her smalls? "Not enough!" Well, if we had that body... Phong Luu
Bora Aksu's macabre musings
Photos: Vladimir Potop
The Dolly Sisters - the "poster girls" of the 1920's whose glory was fleeting due to car accidents, gambling and early suicide - seemed a rather macabre muse for Bora Aksu. White crochet and lace flapper style dresses kicked off the show - a success in their nod to the romanticism of the period - accessorised with intricate beaded headpieces and lace ties. Leather, lace, tulle and fur in muted olive and grey tones slowly morphed into bright fuchsia via berry tones and flashes of red in the lining. At times it was teetering on Thoroughly Modern Milly territory, but was brought back from the edge just in the nick of time. Sophie Warburton, stylist & fashion coordinator.
Hyacinth Bucket chic at LCF MA show
Photos: Getty
Heavy bass, a funky reflective catwalk and the sun-filled atrium of the Royal Opera House provided a stunning backdrop to this year's London College of Fashion MA 2013 show. Ten London-trained designers hailing from all corners of the world (Japan, China and Italy were name-checked in the show notes) showed ten rip-roaring collections to whet the fashion mob's appetite for LFW. Octo Cheung's menswear collection was a highlight for the eyewear alone - male models decked out in punchy raspberry tweed jackets and mossy green shredded knitwear wore spectacles that looked like they'd been concocted by Edward Scissorhands in a particularly frenetic mood. Nadia Scullion's offering also captivated the FROW; pale lemon and grey dresses, cut to hit just below the knee, were paired with long grey mohair coats, latex lined ankle socks and bright white trainers. It was the kind of thing, we daydreamed wistfully, that Hyacinth Bucket might have worn as a lissom twenty-something to serve tea and light refreshments at a golf club in the Home Counties. In a word: sassy. Ellie Pithers, acting fashion features associate, Telegraph Magazine.
Opening ceremony, London style
The sun streamed through the Georgian bay windows in Somerset House's Portico Rooms as Natalie Massenet tub-thumped the week to come at LFW's launch this morning. "The time is right to make things happen for British fashion - in a big way," said Massenet - who assumed leadership of the British Fashion Council six weeks ago. She continued: "We will lead, not follow: we will make new rules.
"We've already cracked the hard part. We have the talent. And you can't create talent, you can't create vision, you can't create an original point of view where there isn't one. We will capitalise on that creativity, strengthen its foundations... and help make London the most exciting fashion capital in the world." The Culture Minister Ed Vaizey rounded off the speeches with a spot of self-deprecation - "I'm sure I will never be cool" - before paying tribute to Massenet's predecessor, Harold Tillman. Manufacturing, the minister then stressed, was something his government approves of: "Fashion manufacturing is so important. And we want to support it." Go on, then! Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor.
Day 1, show 1 - and a good one too
Zoe Jordan (Eddie's daughter) has motored back to London following a stint in HK with a punchily mixed-up AW13 collection. There were lots of bodycon and sometimes bodiced pieces that featured F1 chevron colour-flashes and black leather sections. Jordan went up a gear when she mixed the distressed and mannish - a louchely roughed up P.O.W. check suit, grey flannel trousers, or a badly mistreated grey boyfriend-jumper (its arms ripped from its body) - with the tight stuff. The main tent was packed for this 10am curtain raiser and there were more photographers than you'd see at a UN summit. And the streetstyle action is already frenzied. If you're anywhere near Somerset House, it's well worth a mooch. Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor.
Photos: Getty/ AFP
Backstage beauty moment: Zoe Jordan
Make-up artist Attracta Courtney, who created the looks using Bourjois, said the brief from Zoe Jordan was: "London style with an effortless attitude." Courtney translated that as beautiful modern graphic eyeliner, "but without any kind of retro inspiration," she explained, "against an angel complexion," and a seamless, super pretty pink cheek. We love it for the way we can take it straight from runway to real life with ease. Katy Young, beauty editor
Alexa Chung is on her way
The London Fashion Week ambassador also discovered a new genre of handbag on her commute over from New York...
M&S to champion the 'Best of British'
A new partnership between high street stalwart Marks & Spencer and the British Fashion Council was announced this morning, which will see the retailer working with the organisation to celebrate British fashion, home-grown talent and sustainability. As part of the three-year initiative, two exclusive capsule collections for men and women will feature a combination of British heritage, sourcing and production.
"The M&S brand is synonymous with all things British so we are delighted that they will be partnering with us to champion the very best of the UK's manufacturing, textiles and practice" said Natalie Massenet, Chairman of the BFC.
Let the tweets begin...
The Telegraph has been served detention
A/W 2013 London Fashion Week's invitations are the usual quirky bunch of card cut-outs; or cassette tapes if you're Henry Holland. Taka Naka promise detention for dress code violation, while Mulberry throws a curveball in our preconceptions of winter clothing with a pastel spring-like butterfly. Now who has an old-school boom box so we can hear Henry's cassette message? How Nineties...
Manolo bedecks the May Fair
As the May Fair prepares for its sixth year as LFW's official hotel partner, Manolo Blahnik CBE has stepped in to give the 5 star house a sartorial makeover worthy of any fashionista's boudoir. Comprising of the LFW seasonal campaign imagery designed by the shoe maverick, do pop by and check out the windows adorned with stilettos and illustrations of sharply dressed ladies and gents.
Photo: EPA
Your chance to meet Helena Christensen
Watch out for a new pop-up on the London Fashion Week block. February 15 will see 'Maison Triumph', home of the official lingerie supplier of LFW, open its doors to the public. Expect a free exhibition of the brand's heritage, free fittings and free entry to the BFC's Caroline Rush in conversation with Helena Christensen, and beauty guru Ruby Hammer of Ruby and Milly. Did we mention it's free?
Maison Triumph is open from Friday, February 15 to Monday 18 at 71 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden
Photo: Boden
Hello and welcome to our London Fashion Week live blog. Today kicks off with an official press launch and no less than approximately 25 shows and presentations, and we're in it for the long haul to bring you all the action.
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